Adult and Child Diners Trade Plates: A Reflection On Two Dining Trends of 2009
By Molly Kravitz
For at least the past two decades, children’s menus at American restaurants have been fairly predictable. Most commonly featured were kids’ junk food favorites like pizza, chicken fingers, hot dogs, mac and cheese and if the restaurant forecasted the health craze in years to come, an obligatory, nutritious option like grilled chicken and veggies. Both child diner and parents alike could rely on the consistent uniformity of the children’s menu until recently.
As the chicken and veggie-serving restaurants had predicted, the nation became obsessed with the fear of obesity as they watched their children grow rounder. So into the garbage went the beloved twinkies and sugar-loaded goodies. The FDA required school cafeterias to pack more fruits and veggies into school lunches. Restaurants followed suit and began offering more exciting, healthful alternatives. So many restaurants underwent the kid’s menu makeover that Restaurant News Resource named “revamped children’s menus” one of the top five restaurant trends of 2009.
Simultaneously, international restaurant consultants Joseph Baum and Michael Whitman released their list of 2009 restaurant trends, which included a rise in comfort food menu items on the adult menu. Over the past year, restaurants have pandered to the adult diner’s cravings of mac and cheese, PB and J and other kiddie favorites adults have been ogling on the menu they have outgrown. However, the menu items have been disguised as something more mature. Truffles and fontina camouflaged a standard mac and cheese. The PB and J topped a delicate serving of foie gras. And somehow this made ordering that kiddie dish more socially acceptable.
The two trends suggest that we adult diners have stolen the French fries right off our children’s plates, hoping the kids would not notice when we replaced the finger food with a broccoli option. In the meantime, we have dressed the fries in harissa, cilantro and scallions and gobbled them up ourselves. Does this mean that we must worry for the future health condition of our children, but not ourselves? Well, maybe the transfat in the French fries don’t count when reinvented into fancy fries.
And perhaps the whole “fancy junk food doesn’t count” idea is the reason why we have abandoned our health concerns in favor of the upscale comfort foods. Or maybe, like the kids, we just crave the good stuff that makes us feel, comfortable. When we see the butter poached lobster pizza on a menu, our eyes focus on the most approachable, recognizable word: pizza. We are reminded of the much-anticipated Friday night pizza delivery during our childhood. Pizza strikes a chord of familiarity while the fix-ins of lobster, caramelized shallots and smoked bacon appeal to our developed, more adult palates. Chi-chi comfort food gives us the refinement we desire while enabling our unfading Peter Pan Syndrome.
It is no wonder why comfort food has monopolized the adult menu, but how fair is it to the children who watch their parents wolf down the gruyere Panini (which to them, looks like a frou frou grilled cheese), while they begrudgingly spoon brown rice and greens into their mouths? But fairness aside, these two restaurant trends for 2009 sitting on opposite sides of the health spectrum have birthed a new movement in the interim. In 2009, adults and children have swapped plates. The contents of the adult and child menu traded places giving the adults back that coveted hot dog. And for little Jimmy, the low cal, low fat, low sugar, high protein, high fiber, high antioxidant kid’s meal.










